Off the beaten path in Kayankerni

Large areas in eastern Sri Lanka remained inaccessible to outsiders for many years. Ravaged by war for decades the east coast is now safe and open to tourists. And with peace, the beauty of this area is making the news instead of tales of darkness and suffering. Shallow sunlit coral gardens with healthy corals and colorful reef fish are sure to put a smile on even the most jaded diver.  Kayankerni is a small, relatively unknown village north of Passikudah, that has some of the healthiest fringing coral reefs in Sri Lanka. Hopefully they will not be overexploited by the growing fishing and tourism industries like in other parts of Sri Lanka. Despite its negatives, the war ensured that many coral reefs on the east coast remained out of reach of illegal and destructive fishing fleets, mass development and irresponsible tourists that have degraded reefs in the south of Sri Lanka. Lets hope both the planners and the visitors act more responsibly to ensure that this last remaining bit of paradise is protected for future generations.

Rush Hour!

Its a Sunday morning and Colombo is relatively quite as I head down to the beach for my weekend diving. Out at sea, a stiff current is running north and schooling fish are congregating around reefs and wrecks. some seeking shelter from the currents, others looking to feed on plankton in the passing water column, and a few others looking to turn some of the smaller fish into their Sunday brunch. At Barracuda reef a school of fusiliers appears out of nowhere and stream pass us like rush hour traffic on a freeway, traveling south to some unknown destination. The fish have passed us almost as fast as they appeared but I was able to catch a few frames before they disappear into the blue. Down on the reef, there are no weekends as fish and other reef dwellers continue the eternal fight for survival.

Pinnacles of life

A few kilometers off the coast of Hikkaduwa are three rocky pinnacles rising from a sandy seabed at around 35m, with the tallest reaching up to almost 18m. The rocks look bare from a distance, but closer inspection shows they are covered in orange cup corals and green tree corals. A few black corals, whip corals and sea fans grow in deeper water while soft corals adorn current swept rock faces. Fish life is profuse. Schooling snappers, a few large sweetlips, angelfish and coral groupers waiting in ambush. Groups of anthias feeding on plankton flutter around the pinnacle tops like underwater butterflies. Today four bluefin trevally make forays among the fusiliers and blue triggerfish schooling above the rocks in a hit or miss game of underwater potluck dining. Welcome to Kirala Gala, considered by many to be the premier dive site in Hikkaduwa. But regardless of which dive site is the best there's no debating that these submerged rocks are definitely pinnacles of life.

Rocking it in Hikkaduwa!

Where better to photograph the typical rocky underwater terrain of Hikkaduwa than the aptly named "Hikkaduwa Gala" or Hikkaduwa rock. Smooth granite humps and scattered rocky boulders create an underwater landscape of small caves, canyons and swimthroughs. Coral growth is sparse but the rocks provide shelter to numerous reef fish, octopus, sea stars and sea urchins. Larger predators such as giant trevally and king mackerel make sporadic visits in search of fish that stray too far from shelter. With decent viz and gentle currents its a relaxed easy dive and a chance to experiment with some wide angle photography.

Gorgonian Garden

Off the coast of Colombo, Gorgonian Garden is one of our favorite dive sites. A garden of sea fans at a depth of around 35m creating a fantasy world of reds, yellows and oranges framed against the blue water. Sea fans are not uncommon on other dive sites around Sri Lanka but we have never come across such a dense aggregation of healthy fans. Some as large as a diver stand tall over the flat seabed, often with several feather stars sitting on top of them to find a good vantage point to catch passing plankton. Large sea fans tend to grow in areas subject to strong currents and this site is no exception. The local fishermen call the reef "Hulang Paraya" or windy reef due to its exposed location, and strong currents tend to sweep the reef on most days. However on our last dive we have near perfect conditions with flat seas, light currents and visibility of 20-25m.  The good conditions are ideal for exploring the reef and we chance upon a large coral head teeming with fish, an action packed oasis of life within the silent and serene world of sea fans.

Similan Islands: The jewels of the Andaman Sea

The Similan Islands are a group of nine granite islands in the Andaman Sea, about one hundred kilometers northwest of Phuket, Thailand. The name is derived from the Malay word Sembilan, meaning nine. These islands and surrounding marine waters comprise the Similan Islands Marine National Park, one of the most popular diving destinations in SE Asia. The reefs around the islands are famous for colorful coral gardens and a high diversity of reef fish. It is also a popular destination to see large pelagics such as manta rays and whale sharks that are attracted by nutrient rich upwellings. The western sides of the islands are exposed to seasonal rough seas and have dramatic wave eroded boulders, ledges and drop offs, while the more sheltered eastern sides have gently sloping coral gardens. 

Like many reefs in the Indian Ocean the Similan Islands suffered extensive coral bleaching in 2010 resulting in the death of many hard and soft corals. While it is possible that they will recover with time their long-term future is seriously threatened by global climate change. In order to reduce human impacts the Thai government has close off some areas from tourism in order to allow the reefs to regenerate. Seasonal closures have proven to be highly effective in allowing habitats and animal populations to recover from mass mortality events or chronic stress caused by both anthropogenic causes and natural events. We wonder if Sri Lanka could ever follow such policies, both in our marine and terrestrial protected areas.

Time to head east

The Southwest Monsoon has set in on the west coast so its time to head over to the east coast. Looking forward to a season of discovering some new dive sites. With more areas opening up its time to explore the fringing reefs between Trincomalee and Batticaloa.

Far Away in the Andamans

Located nearly 900 km east of India the Andaman & Nicobar Islands are some of the few remaining unexplored islands in the world. Rain forests, mangroves, and pristine beaches above water contrast with rocky pinnacles, coral reefs and thousands of fish. Some islands are inhabited by indigenous tribes that have little to no contact with the outside world. Havelock Island is one of the few islands open to and developed for tourism and is the main gateway for scuba diving in the Andamans. Around Havelock, reefs teem with marine life. From colorful soft corals and clouds of anthias, to multihued reef fish, large groupers and napolean wrasses to schools of barracuda and trevally. Get away from the chaos of mass tourism, get away from the chaos of cities and a million people, get away to the Andaman Islands where life moves at the pace you want it to.

Dhigu Thila, Maldives

Dhigu Thila is a narrow submerged ridge located on the eastern side of Baa Atoll in the Maldives. Dhigu means long in Divehi, the local language, and is an apt name for this reef. Although many of the corals on the shallow reef top are dead, undoubtedly as a result of coral bleaching, there is a profusion of small fish such as anthias and damselfish. The sides of the reef drop away sharply to a sandy floor at a depth of around 35m, where resting white tip reef sharks can sometimes be seen. The steep reef walls have sea fans, black corals and an extensive labyrinth of caves and ledges that provide shelter to larger fish such as moray eels and groupers. At dusk, schools of feeding trevally pass over the reef, picking at smaller fish in dazzling displays of speed.

West coast season begins!

The winds have abated giving us flat seas on the west coast of Sri Lanka, but the rains have persisted into late November. Visibility is still low on inshore reefs but there's still plenty to see. The nutrients have been attracting large schools of fish, and as usual the small critters are out in their numbers. This is the perfect time to get out the macro lens as we wait for better visibility and great dives in the coming months.

Fish doctor

A cleaner wrasse attends to an adult grey sweetlips at a cleaning station at Hani Faru in Maldives. During the day this cleaning station is frequented by mantas that come into the small bay to feed. But during dusk once the celebrities depart, its the turn of all the other regular citizens of the area. When a fish approaches a known cleaning station, cleaner wrasses will get to work grooming their 'clients', picking away at dead skin and removing pesky parasites. And unlike human doctors or salons the only payment they ask for is a tasty snack! Check out a previous post of a moray eel being cleaned in Negombo, Sri Lanka

Pigeon Island

Healthy coral reefs abound in the shallow waters around Pigeon Island in Trincomalee. Once devastated by a Crown of Thorns starfish infestation these reefs have now recovered completely. But this balance is now being threatened by an increasing number of human activities. Despite being declared a National Park in 2003 fishing including the use of dynamite is still openly carried out on these reefs. Large numbers of visitors are also polluting the island, walking on the reef and removing corals as souvenirs. Still beautiful, this enchanting yet fragile paradise is threatened once again. As is often the case in Sri Lanka, action is lacking from those in charge and only time will decide how long paradise lasts..........but hopefully the future will hold more than a few old photographs.

Goatfish Pyramid

Yellow striped goatfish are common, nocturnally active reef fishes found on many Indo-Pacific reefs. During the day they tend to form small schools, sheltering among reefs and wrecks before dispersing across reef flats at night in search of invertebrates. At times they may form large mixed species schools that include similarly patterned blue striped snappers. This small group formed a loose pyramid, creating a sharp contrast against the deep blue waters and providing a great photo opportunity.

Macro magic: colorful, curious critters

Overlooked, ignored and unappreciated its the small critters that actually make a coral reef tick. More abundant than many other species, cryptic fish such as gobies, blennies and sandperches scurry around the seafloor in their daily routines completely ignored by most divers. Small invertebrates such as nudibranchs are also among the most colorful reef species despite their small size. To really appreciate a coral reef you need to get up close and personal with its smaller residents. So the next time your diving, stop, look and meet all the neighbors!

Tales from a rainbow sea: Part I "Reefscapes"

Maldives Trip Report, January 30th-February 6th 2010:

Despite rough weather and at times poor visibility we are back after a fantastic week in the Maldives aboard the charter boat Noah. Ten friends, a boat to ourselves and our own itinerary amid picture postcard islands and turquoise seas teeming with marine life. Starting in Male' we endure a rough crossing through the Ariadhoo Channel and head to the northern part of Ari Atoll. At Orimas Thila, Fish Head, Maaga Reef, Ellaidhoo, Halaveli, Donkalu Thila and Maalhos Thila we encounter grey reef sharks, white tip reef sharks, manta rays, napolean wrasses, dogtooth tuna, giant trevally, turtles and large schools of reef fish that epitomize classic Maldivian diving. We even see a couple of sea snakes and a feeding manta on a night dive before crossing to Rasdhoo Atoll for dusk and dawn dives at Rasdhoo Madivaru in search of hammerhead sharks and other pelagics. Even though the hammers dont show up the dives are great with patrolling grey reef sharks, sleeping white tips, eagle rays and large dog tooth tuna. And finally we return to North Male Atoll, stopping by at Boduhithi Thila for a magical manta experience. Good company and good diving in the enchanting Maldives.

A new year and new discoveries

Its been a slow start to the 2009/10 west coast season in Sri Lanka. Bad weather has meant frustrating days on land or tough days out at sea. Coupled with work commitments I have not spent any time updating this blog but its time to start again. A new year brings new discoveries and new adventures!

After waiting for the sea to improve with no success we finally braved the swells to explore a new dive site off Mt. Lavinia. Beneath the angry swells on the surface there is calm as we descend into the unknown depths of the deep blue. At 36m we come to a hard-bottom habitat and there before us is an amazing and beautiful site; a dense forest of gorgonians. Giant sea fans more than 2m across lean into the current like giant dreamcatchers listening to the songs of distant whales and other denizens of the deep. Hundreds of blue triggerfish scuttle across the reef in their funny swimming motions like little pixies dancing in a mystical garden. Our time is short at this depth but we will return.............soon!

Reef rhapsody

An eternal autumn

Like trees with colorful leaves of change in autumn, soft corals can create colorful underwater vistas in tropical seas. But despite their beauty, soft corals may sometimes indicate a turbulent past in a reef ecosystem. Soft corals are successful colonizers and are often among the first species to appear on damaged reefs. Several areas in the Indo-Pacific have seen an increase in soft corals since a major coral bleaching event destroyed many of the hard corals that dominated shallow coral reefs. Similarly, they often dominate reefs that have been subjected to dynamite fishing in the past.

Stairway to Heaven

Napantao

Colourful soft coral, sponges, gorgonians and pristine hard corals adorn the walls of Napantao in Sogod Bay, Philippines. Thousands of golden anthias and damselfish cloud the water along the reef edge and clownfish play hide and seek among their host anemones. Larger fish such as sweetlips, snappers and groupers can be found sheltering behind large corals and in small caves, and if you are lucky you may even see a whale shark swim past. Not surprising that this is considered by many as the best dive site in Southern Leyte.